
The Mannekin-Pis, an icon of Brussels
Well this is supposed to be a blog about travel and life around the world as well as in Cornwall, so here is the first travel post! I am looking forward to heading back to Cornwall at the end of this week, but this weekend just gone I took the chance for a quick city break to Brussels. In two days I feel you can see most of what this city has to offer, certainly in the centre without trekking further out. I already wrote a detailed post of what we did on my other blog, A Year in Amiens; Brussels : City of a Thousand Languages, so here I’m instead going to offer a bit more of an overview of the features and character of the city. Some of it will overlap, but hopefully not much.
Firstly, a small introduction in case you know nothing about the city; Brussels is the capital city of Belgium, and also of the European Union, although of course the presidency of the EU rotates around the member states and the French city of Strasbourg houses many EU institutions as well. Brussels is also home to the headquarters of NATO, so it is a very international city. French and Dutch are the two official languages, although English and German are also widely spoken amongst most other languages. Tourist landmarks include the Mannekin-Pis, the Grand Place (a World Heritage site), the EU buildings and the Atomium; a huge futuristic structure built for the Brussels World Fair in 1958 which provides a panoramic viewing point for the city.
Brussels is well known for food and drink; it is supposedly widely recognised as a culinary centre of excellence, but to be honest I mostly saw evidence of the less healthy side! The top items are of course; chocolate, waffles (
gaufres), beer and french fries (frites). Now, I don’t normally drink beer; I’m more of a cider person and I’ve never found any kind of beer I could stomach for more than a few sips. So in Belgium, homeland of beer, I hoped to change that – and I did! In fact I found two beers that met with approval from my tastebuds. One was Kriek Premium cherry, and the other was Lindemann’s Framboise (raspberry). I bought a bottle of each back with me. Of course, for any true beer connoisseur, the must-go place is Delirium Café, to be found in Impasse de la Fidelité and offering over 2000 beers. Its neighbours also have impressive menus, with some specialising in spirits and others in cocktails. The bar itself is worth visiting even if you hate beer; every inch of wall and ceiling is covered in beer trays, mats, mugs, bottles and signs, even umbrellas! It is a mind-boggling place.

Delirium Café
Of course, it was necessary to sample chocolate, waffles and frites as well! The chips came with steak at dinner (accompanied of course by a bottle of beer!), while the chocolate came in the form of a museum with demonstration and tasting and waffle as an afternoon snack. The museum is the Musée du Cacao et du Chocolat, on Rue de la Tête d’Or, just off Grand Place. Entry costs around €4, and you immediately get a tasting! The museum is on three floors and features displays on the horticulture, processing, manufacture, history and uses of chocolate, as well as a short film and a kitchen where they do demonstrations and more tastings. A perfect blend of cooking class and museum education, and totally multilingual. As for my waffle, I chose one with chantilly cream and strawberries; but the choice is endless really. You can have everything from the plain warm waffle with just a touch of sugar, to adding cream, chocolate, various fruits, syrups…basically anything you can think off. It’s well worth it and for the best experience buy from one of the small kiosks in the streets around the Grand Place and eat it standing on a street corner, taking in the multitude of cultures and languages washing past you.


Well enough about food! Certain areas of Brussels, such as the Sablon and Marolles, are well known for antique shops and flea markets. Whilst the shops are open all year round, the markets usually run on weekends only. One of the more popular ones takes place in Place Sablon, in the shade of Sablon Church. Being a bit of a bargain hunter, I went to this on Saturday. I had heard it was good for books but unfortunately there were no extensive book stalls there this weekend. However I did come away with five early 1900s postcards (one of which is written on although I haven’t deciphered the handwriting yet), and two pieces of jewellery. There was all sorts of other things on sale; doorknobs, books, paintings, fur, furniture and general brick-a-brack, all of it ranging from junk to really expensive antique pieces. Here were my finds; a flower brooch and a blue-and-silver pendant necklace, and the postcards: top; a fishing boat scene, left; the Gros Horloge in Rouen, middle; a scene from the gardens of Versailles, right; the Mannekin-Pis, bottom; the Grand Place. All of this for just €12!


Another feature of Brussels which I found very interesting is its street art; quite apart from the many whimsical statues and fountatins to be found on street corners, there is a raft of excellent and thoughtful graffiti; among my favourites was a mural of four pigs; one on its own and the other three stacked on top of each other, and the casual figures adorning a 2nd hand music shop. However, we came across a lot of this graffiti in the process of looking out for another street art feature put in place this year; comic strip murals. As well the architecture and food, Brussels and Belgium in general is also known for producing many comic strip characters and artists. As part of a celebration of this “ninth art”, 34 murals were painted throughout the city. We managed to see 16 of them; mostly the ones in the true centre of town. Of these, my favourite is probably l’Ange; the Angel that watches over the city, with existential graffiti tags added at the bottom of the wall. I also liked the one depicting a street corner with a tram and brasserie as for me that really embodies the european city.

Three little piggies...

L'Ange

Street corner
It is a strange experience crossing a border by train; no one checked our passports and it didn’t really feel like we had gone to another country! Part of this I’m sure is to do with the fact that Belgium is also majority French speaking, so travelling from one francophone country to another meant I didn’t have that usual, most obvious sign of change. Another factor is that even in Lille, just within the French border and an international hub with trains running between Belgium, France and the UK, the three languages (French, Dutch, English) begin to appear on signs, so already the cultures are being mixed and you begin to feel like you’re in an international place rather than one particular country. I titled the post on my other blog “Brussels: City of thousand languages” because I swear I heard every language known to man and more besides in two days there. Apart from the three “biggies”; French, English and Dutch, there were also German, Spanish, Italian, Polish, Russian, Greek, Chinese and many other Arabic and Asian languages I couldn’t begin to identify. Evidence of cultural migration was everywhere; in shops, restaurants, services and just in the people walking down the street. It really is a completely international city, and somewhere I would definitely consider spending some time in if ever I needed to improve a particular language. I would say French and English were the two languages I heard most; and even though I spoke to people in French I was often answered in English, at least after a couple of sentences. This irritated me a bit because I don’t think I sound obviously English when I’m speaking French now; indeed I was always either asked “do you speak English?” or the person in question had heard me speaking English to my friend before the language was switched. I can understand that, just as I try to always improve my French, the people I was speaking to may have been trying to improve their English, but I can’t help feeling that it was the “default-to-English” syndrome again and assumption about my level of French. One incident has stuck in my mind and that was when I was buying my waffle; there were no prices listed so when I got mine I had to wait until the vendor told me how much, which she did whilst turning away into the kitchen so I only caught 4… and not what came after. So I got four euros out and gave that to her, so she repeated how much more was needed. I heard “five”, in English (she’d heard me speaking to my friend), so I gave her 5 cents, she shook her head and repeated herself; this time I heard what sounded like “five teen”, very badly pronounced, so I queried her; “fifteen? quinze?” in English then French, and she shook her head again, finally giving up on English and told me “cinquante”; fifty. At last! If she had just stuck to French, we would have understood each other perfectly and she could have moved on to the next customer already. The default to English syndrome really annoys me sometimes, especially in cases like this. I realise that for people who can’t speak French (or any other language) well, it is necessary, and I’m sure that I will need it in Dresden later this year; since I don’t speak a word of German. But when you have started speaking to someone in perfectly good French (or any other language) and it’s just a simple transaction why on earth must you switch to English!!
Anyway here are the photo albums: Brussels 1, Brussels 2, Comic strips, statues & other street art. There are 60 photos in each of the first two albums and about 40 in the third. It is hard to pick a favourite, but I think if I had to pick one which I felt represented the city of Brussels, it would be this; the ornate architecture on the corner of the street where the Mannekin-Pis stands, coupled with the flags representing the total multiculturality of this city:
